A lot of the journalists here in Tunis, where I am to cover Sunday’s elections, are writing this story: In the months since the Arab Spring began, change has been rolled back, thwarted, and repressed in Egypt, Yemen, Bahrain, and even Libya. But there’s one exception: Tunisia. The place where it all began is still the Arab world’s best hope for democracy.
There’s some truth to this — a lot actually. And I think it helps that Tunisians themselves realize this fact: that they are the best chance, the leading country, and the example-setter for what comes next. The sense of responsibility to rise above the goals of political gains are present throughout society. Analysts, candidates, and citizens have also expressed this sentiment.
But here’s where I fear there could be–though hopefully won’t be!–an achilles heel. In many ways the blessing and the curse of the Tunisian revolution is that they never destroyed the state. There was no gutting of the bureaucracy; people who held their posts, even in the dreaded interior ministry, largely still do. Aside from a decapitation of the top ranks, there was no purge the way that there has been in Libya for example. The state still works. Water is running, cops direct traffic, electricity is great, and the ministries even still update their websites.
The curse half of that is that there is a profound sense that the order has been changed only artificially, and that those who benefited from “the system” will continue to do so–no matter what happens in the vote. Presumably, those who are nested in that system are also very keen not to change it, a fact that may stagnate or even block reforms all together. Tunisia today is a place where the conversation is open but the same government is running the show.
That’s not necessarily dangerous. Many of those who worked under Ben Ali were exceedingly competent — which is reflected in Tunisia’s strong economic performance (on macro indicators), its favorability among donors and foreign investors, and its generally solid system of public services, at least in the major cities. But here’s the thing: If there isn’t change fast enough to meet the expectations of those who started the revolution, they may demand change again–and again. Or they might lost interest all together. And neither scenario bodes well for a new democracy that is getting its feet.
I’m not a pessimist though, not by any means. I was once told by a very wise politician (former pres) that if you treat the electorate as the responsible and mature citizens they are, they will never disappoint you. If the parties that are contesting the polls this week and in the months and years to come can rise to the occasion–as I think the majority will–I think Tunisia will do more than fine. In fact, I can’t wait to see what Tunisia does. It could surprise us all.
I trust in that because there is incredible pride beaming from the streets of Tunis this week. Everyone feels the weight of what’s about to happen: the first democratic vote this country has ever had, and the first real election to take place (aside from Egypt’s referendum) since the dictators began to fall in the Arab Spring. Everyone–no matter how many concerns they have or complaints they express–suddenly changes tone when you ask them if they are hopeful for the elections and for the future. As long as they believe, why shouldn’t we?